When it comes to the fundamentals of paper folding, accuracy is key. Ensuring that each fold is as precise as possible, especially the initial ones, lays the foundation for a successful model. This applies broadly across different folding techniques, and achieving accuracy will help you improve your overall folding skills.
Accuracy is what lies behind the scenes of any paper sculpture. With materials that can be drawn or written on, there is room for constant mistakes and corrections. But paper is something that has to be drawn accurately right from the first stroke. The key to achieving sharp folds is by scoring the paper (this refers to making a small incision on the paper that does not cut through it completely). The angle of the knife and the amount of pressure applied are all crucial elements to scoring. If the incision is too deep, it may weaken or tear the paper, but if it is too light, it may not give you the sharp fold that you desire. You will also notice that if you maintain a consistent depth throughout your sculpture, it will have an even sheen to it when the light hits the folded edges. This in itself gives any sculpture a nice finish.
After the model has been scored, the next logical step is to fold. The difference between a valley fold and a mountain fold is that a valley fold is folded down towards the paper and a mountain fold is folded upwards. Both are essential in creating three-dimensional models from a two-dimensional page. To make a fold, the fold should be aligned with the crease and then you press down on the crease with a bone folder or nail to create the fold. It is imperative not to squeeze too hard and crease the paper nearby. Through experience, a person can develop a sense of the direction of the paper grain, which dictates the ease of folding and the amount of stress a model can take before it breaks. This helps avoid unnecessary creases and adds to the model’s life expectancy.
This technique gives movement to shapes that would otherwise be geometric. When narrow strips or teardrops are gently stroked with a blunt instrument, the paper will curl up dramatically. The amount of curl achieved varies by pressure, stroke speed, and the weight of the paper used. Small curls can be achieved easily on tissue weight paper, while heavier cardstock will need to be rolled more firmly and slowly to achieve the same level of curl without tearing the paper. The curls can be layered to build depth and texture, and curled paper is often used to suggest the texture of feathers, petals, or long hair. It is a good idea to take your time in making curls, as too much haste in creating curls can detract from the balance of the rest of the work.
Quilling is done by rolling up very thin pieces of paper into tight curls or teardrop shapes and gluing them onto the sculpture in patterns. I’ve found that quilling takes a lot of patience and a steady hand, and that slight variations in the tightness of the rolls or the length of the fringing can make a big difference to the appearance of a piece.
Each and every intentional scoring, folding, rolling, and fringing adds to the final result. The ability to keep a small paper model under control requires control that in turn requires patience. Not only does patience help to improve your skills but it also helps you learn to do more with less. This is the hallmark of advanced artists who can diverge from the instructions to make choices that not only consider the physical limitations of paper but also their artistic intent, the result being 3D paper sculptures that look organic, proportional, and unique.